When the clock tolls midnight on Thanksgiving, and I awaken from my post-feast nap with a case of the munchies that makes Twinkies everywhere quake in their sleeves, there is one and only one thing at the top of my list.

With a couple of deft knife strokes, the quarry is caught and then plated. After 45 seconds in the microwave, a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream sits atop and my pecan pie snack is ready for munching.

I don't know what does it for me. Is it the crunchy, sweet pecans on top? Is it the jelly-like, faintly caramel-tasting filling underneath? It's hardly the most complex dessert in the world, but the variations are endless.

One of the basic dividing lines in pecan pie cookery is corn syrup, often called by brand-name Karo syrup in the South. Most pies use it, either light or dark, and there are ardent devotees of each. I personally prefer the dark corn syrup, but I've brought you one that uses light syrup and dark brown sugar for a rich, complex flavor.

Classic Pecan Pie

1 c. dark corn syrup
1 c. sugar
3 eggs, at room temperature, lightly beaten
1 tbsp. cornstarch
1 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
¼ tsp. allspice and freshly grated nutmeg
1 c. pecans (halves and pieces)
1 deep dish 9-inch pie shell

Preheat oven to 425° Fahrenheit.

Mix sugar and corn syrup thoroughly. Add remaining ingredients, except pecans.

Place pecans in pie shell. Pour remaining ingredients over pecans.

Place pie pan on foil-lined cookie sheet. Bake at 425° for 10 minutes, then reduce heat to 350° and bake for 35 minutes, or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.

Brown Sugar Pecan Pie

1 c. light corn syrup
1 c. dark brown sugar
½ tsp. kosher salt
1/3 c. margarine, melted
2 tsp. pure vanilla
3 eggs, slightly beaten, at room temperature
1 ¼ c. pecan halves
1 deep-dish 9-inch pie shell, unbaked

Preheat oven to 350° Fahrenheit.

Combine all ingredients but pecans and mix thoroughly.

Pour half the pecans into the pie shell. Add the filling mixture, then scatter the remaining pecans on top.

Bake for 45 minutes or until toothpick comes out clean.